The Tall Round Tip Pleated Hat

Definition of hat
Origins and spread of the style
An SCA interpretation
Tools and Materials
Construction process
Construction Tips
Bibliography

My version of a Round-Tip Pleated Hat

Round-Tip Pleated hat as worn by Elisabeth Knollys - 1577

Definition:

In this paper I will discuss the Round-tip pleated hat, which can be seen in a variety of portraits from England, Spain, and France. This particular hat has a rounded tip. The tip was traditionally made from formed felt or hair felt. The brim could be made from heavy paper with glue sizing or other stout materials. This is a foundational hat meaning that it has a solid foundation under the fabric.

Origins and spread of the style:

One can trace the origins of the wearing of hats as far back as primitive man. Historical evidence has shown that some form of head covering was used for protection against the elements.

During the late 14^th and 15^th centuries hats played an important role in men's clothing and were considered an important fashion item as well as a status symbol. I suspect they were rather like Jimmy Choo shoes of the period.

As hats gradually grew in popularity during the 15th Century, one begins to see tall foundation hats worn by the masses and not just the nobility. Additionally, one begins to see women co-opting the men's hats and making them a fashion statement for women.

Note the number of round tipped tall hats worn by the crowd in this wood cut:

Crowd scene from contemporary wood cut 1560 - England

With the increase in the number of foundational hats being demanded, there are an increasingly diverse range of materials used for their production. Silk, velvet, taffeta, leather, and felted wool were used on the outside of hats and a variety of stout foundation materials were used. Some of the most popular foundation materials included, hairy paper, thick paper/cardboard , heavy glue sizing over burlap and other materials with glue sizing.

In England, France and Spain, as with most other regions at this time, hats are a testament to wealth and status. The use of expensive fabrics and large hats seems to suggest a more wealthy status, rather like cars today.

An SCA interpretation:

The following table compares some of the differences between how a Round-Tipped Pleated Tall was likely constructed and some of the modern changes I made to make my hat a little more wearable.

	Period materials/Techniques	My Variations
Over Fabric	Wool, silk velvets, brocades and satin, leather	cotton velvet
Thread	Silk, wool, or linen threads	Cotton thread
Foundation materials	Hairy felt, felt and paper combined with glue sizing.	tip: Formed felt with starch for sizing Brim: two ply buckram
Backing of over fabric	Linen	same
Lining of hat	Silk	same
Interior of hat	Hairy wadding	Cotton wadding (French fleece)
Finishing touches	Jeweled hat band, feather, brooch, etc	same

Tools and Materials

Fabric: 1 yards of 59 inch cotton velvet
Round tip hat block ( you may be able to rent on locally in the bay area, Lacis in Berkeley will rent for about 7$ /week.)
1/4 yard 100% wool felt
2 cups of liquid starch
Large wash tub or sink
Thread: Use a good quality thread - silk is best if you can find it, a cotton thread will work too.
Millinery needles #14 #16
1/4 yard of 2 ply buckram
Millinery wire #8 or #9
Cotton wading or French fleece
Chalk or tracing paper
Manila paper for pattern

Construction process for Round-Tip Pleated Tall Hat:

Construction the rounded tip:

Soak wool felt in hot water. Gently massage the felt until it is completely soaked.
- Squishing the fabric is OK, but do not wring it.
- I find it useful to wear rubber gloves for this process as it allows me to work in hotter water.
Once the hat is well soaked, remove it from the water and add 2 cup liquid starch to your water. Put it back into the hot water and continue to massage it until starch seems worked through the felt.
Squish excess water from felt and place over round tip hat block, press into shape
- You'll need a string or large rubber band to secure the felt at the bottom of the hat block
Put about 1 cup of undiluted liquid starch into a spray bottle, and once you have your felt stretched and secured onto the hat block, spray liberally with starch.
- I find it useful to gently massage the starch into the fibers. Begin at the tip and work you way down.
Let dry completely. Usually a couple of days will do it.
Once dry, add millinery wire around the base of the stock.
Add French fleece or cotton wadding to the tip and down the stock of the hat.
Cut your fashion fabric into a circle that fits over the top of your tip and reaches so the bottom of the stock with about 1/4 inch to spare.
Mark the center of your circle.
Using a long ruler and chalk, mark long lines which transverse the center point in pie-like lines such that there is about 1/2 inch between lines at the edge of the fabric.
Using a hearty thread, stitch a guide line through your lines about 4" from center and 6" from center.
- Use thread which is the same color as your hat as these threads will remain with your hat.
Place hat on form, and pin each quarter.
Turn the fabric under the edge of the stock, and stitch using a stab stitch.

Brim:

Make a brim pattern

Measure your head 2 inches above your ear and add 1/2 inch. This will be your head plate size
- In order to get a good head plate shape, you might find it useful to invest in an "architect curve". It is lets you measure around odd shapes and retains the shape so you can trace it. This allows you to have an exact head plate. If you don't have a curve, feel free to use the plates at the end of this paper.
Add 1/4 inch in from your head plate, this will be where you cut the buckram for the brim.
- The extra 1/4 inch will be used as tabs inside the hat where you will join the stock and the brim.
Add 2-2.5 inches from the actual headplate line, this will by the brim of your hat. If you want a point in the front, simply add it at this time.

Using the brim pattern

Using the above pattern, cut 2 brims from 2 ply buckram, one on the bias and one with the grain.
Add millinery wire to the edge of the 2 pieces of buckram.
Add 1/4 inch to your brim pattern and use it to cut out 2 pieces of your fashion fabric
Add French fleece or cotton wadding to the top of the brim - secure with large stab stitches
Place fabric on brim, pin securely
Turn each edge and sew using invisible stitches.
Using chalk or a marking pencil, mark your head plate -1/2 inch on the brim.
Cut the head along the inside line
cut easing tabs out to the original headplate line
fold tabs up
Place stock on brim and sew through stock and tabs.

Adding a lining

Now that the hat was looking like a hat, it was time to add a lining. I like to use silk dupioni for lining as it has enough body to stay up in a hat and not become floppy over time. You may wish to add a sweat band inside the hat for comfort and to finish the look.

Construction Tips:

When buying buckram, make sure you get "2 ply buckram" I like to get my supplies from California Millinery in Los Angeles.
I used a regular thread for the guide threads and one ended up breaking. Next time I'll use a heavier thread such as quilting thread.
Be patient when pleating, they have to be small pleats or it won't work
I like to use a steamer when steaming pleats rather than an iron that can flatten your pleats and silk pile.

Bibliography:

Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620 -- Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986.

Boucher, François; 20,000 Years of Fashion The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. (Library of Congress # 66-12103).

Starkey, David: Elizabeth the Exhibition at the National Maritime Museum; Chatto & Windus, London - 2003.

Permission granted to use these materials for non-profit, educational uses.